Blog Discontinued

The Waikiki Wanderer has been slowly but surely building up a nice weekly readership, something we greatly appreciate.

Unfortunately, we must disappoint our loyal readers by announcing the discontinuation of this blog after only five months of publication. A sudden, unexpected and serious health issue prevents walking the streets on a daily basis in search of stories and photos. This makes further publication impossible, at least for the foreseeable future. This leaves Waikiki again without a full-time, dedicated blog.

However, we've noted that the most popular columns by a very large margin have been the restaurant reviews. As we're still able to do these, we'll be launching a new column called "Oahu Dining Info" which will be found at oahudining.info. We hope you'll drop by, beginning later in 2011 or early in 2012.

Review: Makittii Japanese Seafood Buffet

This month's restaurant review appears a week later than usual due to our special Neighborhood Board feature last week.

Makittii Japanese Seafood Buffet is located on the mauka side of Kuhio, opposite Ka`iulani Avenue, on the site of the former Perry's Restaurant.

When Perry's closed somewhat suddenly last summer (2010), we witnessed one of the fastest construction jobs we've ever seen in Waikiki. Makittii rose from the ashes of Perry's in just a few short weeks and opened in record time.

We visited just after opening, and there were some startup problems to be worked out, so we returned again quite recently. Makittii, after a number of months of operation, is still tuning its business model.

Whereas previously there was a fixed dinner price of $32.95, there are now two options. If you want lobster and prime rib along with the buffet, the price remains $32.95 and a 20% kama`aina discount is available. If you're willing to skip the lobster and prime rib, the price drops to $18.95, although no
discounts or coupon deals apply to the lower price. Drinks are extra at $2.95 for cold drinks and $2.00 for hot beverages.

The buffet selections are quite extensive and varied. There are the Japanese items that you would expect, such as sushsi and tempura; there are also a surprising number of Chinese items like pot stickers, choi sum and others.

The big attraction, of course, is king crab--- piles and piles of it.

Then there's garlic ahi, teriyaki chicken, roast beef, roast pork, all manner of shrimp ... it goes on and on; there's a grill-to-order station featuring beef and pork, and an extensive dessert bar. We doubt that we covered even a fourth of the items ourselves.

How's the quality? We found the sushi didn't taste fresh and the poke was overly salty. The roast beef was "well done" if not beyond that, and was somewhat fatty. The grilled-to-order beef was very good, as were the pot stickers. The crab was outstanding.

The rest of the dishes that we tried were pretty average, certainly not bad if not quite exceptional, either.  The desserts lacked appeal to a Western palate; it was again a situation of not so bad but nothing special.

Overall, we thought there was a lot of value in the $18.95 menu as long as you're not looking for top quality or utter freshness of ingredients.

We did have some issues with the service. We arrived just after dinner opened, and even though most of the tables inside were empty, we and everyone else had to give our names and wait 15 minutes or so to be seated. This was probably because the restaurant is seriously understaffed. After we were seated, it was another little while before our drink orders were taken. The staff were nice enough and tried hard to be helpful, but there just weren't enough of them to go around.

Makittii has a tie-in with the Sanrio "Hello Kitty" franchise, and you see Hello Kitty items around the restaurant. "Hello Kitty" arrived in person during the evening, to the great delight of kids, whose parents paid extra for a photo of their child with this popular character.

Do we recommend Makittii? It's truly an odd place. For a while, they seemed to try hard to attract Japanese clientele--- but at the time, they offered a 20% discount to residents of North America. If you were Japanese, sorry, you paid full price. That struck us as a really backwards marketing strategy. Today, with their reduced-price menu offering, they seem to want to attract anyone who is willing to come.

But, yes, we do recommend Makittii for a satisfying meal that, by Waikiki standards, is moderately priced. It's definitely not upscale dining, but it doesn't pretend to be. The restaurant still has some things to work out; maybe they will, maybe they won't--- progress has been slow--- but that shouldn't stop you from giving it a try, especially if you happen to be really hungry.

Neighborhood Boards: They're All About Communication--- Um, Well, Aren't They?

The Waikiki Neighborhood Board Met on May 10, 2011

The concept of the "Neighborhood Board" in Honolulu County is an interesting and worthy one. The idea is that a group of elected representatives get together every month in an advisory rather than a legislative or decision-making capacity. They hear reports from various County and local agencies, ask questions, and provide input.

There are a number of such boards on O`ahu; Waikiki has one, Neighborhood Board #9. To bring the concept closer to the citizenry, the Neighborhood Boards have subdistricts; Waikiki has three of them. Board members are elected for a term of two years. In Waikiki, an election is currently in process in all three subdistricts.

Members of the Waikiki Neighborhood Board During a Meeting

Candidates for election publish brief personal statements. These statements appear on the Internet, on the website of the Neighborhood Commission Office (NCO) and in printed material sent by mail to voters.

The first thing we noted was that statements were brief indeed and contained no contact information. Some candidates provided no statement at all.

We thought we should explore this issue further, so we contacted the NCO and asked for contact information for the candidates, stating that we wanted to poll them for further information about their candidacies. The response we received absolutely astounded us.

The NCO told us, very politely but in clear terms, that since Neighborhood Board positions were unpaid, voluntary, and non-decision-making, it was their policy not to release contact information. Elected candidates had the option, but not the obligation, to publish contact information on the NCO website.

In other words, Neighborhood Boards bring government down to the people--- except if you'd like to contact the candidates who want to represent you.

Not All Members Attend Each Meeting

Despite the NCO's refusal to provide contact information, we developed it on our own, and chose Subdistrict 3 to test things a little further. We wrote to each of the six candidates in Subdistrict 3, soliciting a more detailed candidacy statement and promising to publish whatever we received. We only got one response, and Mr. Frankie Kam's statement and photo appear at the end of this story.

To be fair, at least minimal contact information for each currently sitting member of the Waikiki Neighborhood Board appears on the NCO website. Some members give just an email or a phone number; some others give more detailed information.

But what can we conclude from all of this? An open, neighborhood-oriented representation process apparently is only open to a certain degree. The NCO won't provide more than the bare minimum of candidate information, some candidates provide none at all, and many candidates apparently don't want to be contacted.

An Address on Homelessness at the May 10 Meeting

Is there something wrong with all of this?

We answer that question with an emphatic "Yes."

But in any event, thank you Mr. Frankie Kam for taking the time to send us a detailed candidacy statement, which we're more than pleased to present below.

Mr. Frankie Kam, Candidate for Waikiki Neighborhood Board Subdistrict 3:

My name is Franklin "Frankie" Kam and I'm of third generation Immigrant stock, born in Waipahu, Hawaii on October 19, 1940 as both of my grandparents; Kam Tong on my father, Francis side and Lum on my mom, Thelma's side were from Canton, China and contract sugar plantation laborers plus farmers too (Kam Tong, 30 acre rice farmer & Lum, lotus root farmer) My parents Francis & Thelma were from big, 10-children families, where everyone worked hard and grew up in rural Waipahu, where "Sugar was King" in their days. My mom, Thelma tended to her one woman grocery store in Waipahu across from the Waipahu Sugar Mill and my dad, Francis took car of our hog slaughterhouse business ,receiving farmers with their livestock during the day and he started the boiler at night for the slaughtered hogs, pushed into a tank of hot water before being pulled on a table to have the hairs scrapped off and then, my father's younger brother, Albert "Yunny"would slit the hog carcasses in half and he then shoved them off to the Agricultural Inspector for his approval that the 1/2 carcasses would be okay for the markets. The insides on the 1/2 carcasses: heart, stomach, intestines and liver would be checked and my mom would wash them out with water to be sold in her grocery store. My parents grocery store was called New Hing Chong Store and their hog slaughterhouse was called New Hing Chong Slaughterhouse as they added the word "New" when they bought both businesses for $600.00 from the original owners.

I did go to public school, August Ahrens School on Waipahu Street but my parents switched me to Saint Joseph Catholic School, when I cried a lot after I found out that I wouldn't be with my neighbors: Mae and Michael Minagawa, who walked with me to school, in starting 2nd grade but I had to redo first grade at Saint Joseph's school and graduated there in 1955. I then went to Saint Louis High School and graduated there in 1959, when Hawaii became the 50th State! I later graduated from Chaminade University in 1964 with a B.A. in History.

As a candidate for the Waikiki Neighborhood Board, I do have a lot of volunteer work experience with a First Lady Volunteer Award in 1989 for my work as Neighborhood Watch Coordinator signing up everyone in my Alii Plantation community for this Neighborhood Watch Program with Honolulu Police Department from 1987-89 that included a men's Softball Team that I coached and opponents included Governor Waihee, Mayor Fasi, Hungry Lions Celebrities (Tom Selleck a member) Saint Louis 59ers, Crosspointe and Foster Village. In North Carolina, I started a Community Watch Program in 1995 working with Sheriff Randy Cartwright. Here in Waikiki, I've been involved with Kanu Hawaii regarding a Special Election for Congress (Colleen Hanabusa), Ballot Box Station 2010, Abercrombie for Governor Region 2 Volunteer and Organizing for America, Hawaii Democratic Party Member 2010-101. I am the author of 'Above The Clouds," Xlibris, my 19th poetry book and I have a Ainahau59 Blog. Please Vote For Me For The Waikiki Neighborhood Board! That would be "Shaka Hooray!"

9th Annual Spam Jam

The 9th Annual Waikiki Spam Jam took place last Saturday afternoon and evening (April 30, 2011). Though seemingly smaller than some previous editions, it was by any measure a great success, with thousands of visitors and kama`aina in attendance.

As usual, part of Kalakaua Avenue was blocked off; this year it was just a few blocks, but that was more than enough to cause a Spam Jam traffic jam.

There were just two performance stages, but the entertainment was top-rate, with all sorts of local artists participating. Kahiko hula was featured in the performance shown below; throughout the afternoon and evening, just about every form of Hawaiian music and dancing was on display, to the great delight of the crowds.

The theme was Spam and everything Spam. One of the volunteer workers at the party wore a unique Spam-themed hat.

Attendees could also pick up a great variety of Spam-related merchandise, including a huge choice of Spam tee shirts.

Of course, there was no lack of Spam on the menu of the numerous participating food vendors. A Spam cheeseburger, perhaps?

Or perhaps some Spam-flavored macadamia nuts? We hadn't seen these before, so we tried them; let's just say their taste is "unique."

Statistics show that Hawaiians consume about twice as much Spam per-capita as mainlanders. Conventional accounts trace this back to World War II, with GIs bringing the product with them as they passed through Hawai`i on their way to the Pacific Theater. Spam is actually produced in Minnesota, a state about as unlike Hawai`i as we can imagine.

Tourists delight to Spam and eggs breakfast menu options at local fast food restaurants, but Hawaiians take it in stride. It's not surprising that Spam is sometimes called "Hawaiian steak."

The 9th Annual Spam Jam was a terrific event and an enjoyable time for everyone. That it's a good thing for tourism is self-evident, and we congratulate the organizers on a job well done. Here's to next year!

Briefly Noted

At the start of each month,we present a series of photos with brief commentary. This month our theme is "nearly new."

Teddy Bear World isn't all that new, but by any account it's a great addition to the Waikiki scene. A moderately-priced family attraction, Teddy Bear World features displays and collections of--- what else--- teddy bears. A substantial kama`aina discount is offered, something we always appreciate. It's on Kalakaua in the `Ewa end of Waikiki.

Hard Rock Cafe recently moved from Kalakaua to a new Beachwalk location. It's a move that took a lot longer than anyone expected, but the new quarters look really attractive.

Quite new on Kuhio Avenue in mid-Waikiki is Zero's NY Pizzeria. It still has a bit of that "under construction" look but we're sure that will soon be cleaned up. We're anxious to see if real New York pizza has indeed come to Waikiki.

We reported on Marukame Udon a couple of weeks back; it still has long waiting lines. Small wonder; it's one of the best values in the district.

And finally, after "coming soon" for what seemed like almost two years, Kuhio Pharmacy has opened its doors at the `Ewa end of Kuhio Avenue.

May's mystery photo features this elegant statue. Can you give its location? Yes, it's in Waikiki, but you'll need to be a little more specific.

April's mystery photo was certainly of the Ala Wai, but we wondered if you could tell us where it was taken. It's at the far Diamond Head end, looking in the `Ewa direction, just makai of the library buildings. That was easy, wasn't it?

Honolulu Star-Advertiser Opens Waikiki Bureau

A Star-Advertiser Vending Machine in Waikiki

The Honolulu Star-Advertiser recently announced the formation of a Waikiki Bureau, to be headed by veteran journalist Allison Schaefers. We contacted Ms. Schaefers, and she was gracious enough to take time from a very busy schedule to grant us an interview.

WW: How did the idea to start a Waikiki bureau come up, and how long has it been in the making?

AS: The excitement surrounding the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC), a high-level summit that will bring heads of states from 21 economies to Waikiki in November, was definitely a factor in the opening of the Waikiki Bureau. The opening also signifies the Star-Advertiser’s commitment to making sure that its readers are well-informed about what goes on in the state’s economic engine and how those developments affect their own lives. We’ve been planning this bureau since the beginning of the year, but we just opened the office in late March. Our coverage is a work in progress and will continue to evolve based on the needs and desires of our readers.

WW: What are the goals of the Waikiki bureau? What kind of reporting can we expect to see?

AS: We want to be the definitive source for Waikiki news. Coverage will range from business stories to features and news stories about the people that live, work and visit Waikiki. When you think about it, Waikiki is really the backyard for everyone in Hawaii. Since the district is ground central for tourism, it influences global perceptions of Hawaii and provides the bulk of the state tourism revenue and tax collections that are tapped across all islands. What happens in Waikiki affects nearly everyone in this state in one way or another so we want to provide substantive reporting that interests and informs readers.

WW: In the Star-Advertiser we read that the Waikiki bureau wants to be "the voice of Waikiki." What does this mean to you, and how will you accomplish this?

AS: Waikiki always has made tourism news; however, it has sometimes been overlooked when journalists are collecting fodder for stories about real isle people and topics that concern them. The Honolulu Star-Advertiser is invested in Waikiki and we want to be good neighbors by making sure that we provide a forum for all voices in the district to be heard.

WW: What's your own background in Waikiki and Waikiki reporting?

AS: I have covered state tourism for eight years often focusing on Waikiki. I have gotten to know many of the leaders and workers in the district’s hospitality industry and now am looking forward to meeting more residents and guests. Last year, I completed a reporting package that looked at the impact of homelessness on tourism in Waikiki. The piece earned a national reporting award from the Society of American Business Editors and Writers (SABEW) who selected it as one of the best explanatory journalism pieces submitted for the their 2010 best in business contest.

WW: Is there anything else you'd like to add?

AS: When I was a little girl, my mother told me to find a career that I liked and then it would never seem like work. She knew a lot about this topic because she too was a journalist... I grew up playing in newsrooms and learning about accountability as the fruits of her labors were discussed around town and at our dinner table.

I’ve been working as a paid journalist for about 23 years and I’ve never wanted to do anything else. I consider it a privilege to work for the Honolulu Star-Advertiser and for all of our readers.

Our industry has suffered in recent years, but I still believe that I, and the young people who are coming after me, will have a future in this profession. The way that we deliver the news may change with the times, but our job continues to be important.

I’m proud to work for a newspaper owner, David Black, who is still bullish on print journalism and believes that newspapers continue to be a vital part of the democratic process. I’m thankful to work for editors who care about quality and alongside colleagues who give it all that they’ve got day after day.

Professional Biography of Allison Schaefers

(photo courtesy Honolulu Star-Advertiser)

Allison Schaefers, a three-time national award-winning reporter, covers Hawaii tourism and Waikiki for the Honolulu Star-Advertiser.

She joined Oahu Publications Inc. in 2003 as part of the business reporting staff of the Honolulu Star-Bulletin and stayed on after its consolidation with The Honolulu Advertiser. Prior to this, Schaefers was a staff writer for the Florida Times-Union in Jacksonville, Fla. where she covered the Amelia Island/Fernandina Beach beat. Earlier, Schaefers served as News Editor for the Camden County Tribune.

Schaefers has worked alongside the White House Press Corps during President Barack Obama’s many Hawaii visits. She has been published by the New York Times, the International Herald Tribune, Bloomberg and the Wall Street Journal.

She has been honored three times by the Society of American Business Editors and Writers (SABEW). This year her explanatory package on the impact of Waikiki homelessness on tourism was named among the best works in business among American journalists, as was her feature about the iconic Coco Palms. Last year, she was recognized by SABEW for her breaking news coverage of the last sugar haul at the now closed Gay & Robinson sugar mill on Kauai. Schaefers also has won more than 20 state journalism awards for writing, editing and photography.

An honors graduate of the Henry W. Grady School of Journalism at the University of Georgia, Schaefers has earned several professional and academic scholarships. Last year, she reported from China after being selected as a prestigious Jefferson Fellow at the University of Hawaii’s East West Center. In 2006, she reported from Cambodia during a partner fellowship with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and East West Center. She also has studied journalism in Italy and England, where she completed a project on journalism ethics.

Schaefers can be reached at (808) 218-6718 or by e-mail at aschaefers@staradvertiser.com. She would welcome story ideas about Waikiki.
 

The Waikikiki Wanderer Comments

We were delighted to see the Star-Advertiser open a Waikiki desk, not because we feel the media have neglected Waikiki, but because we think that the additional focus on our district will be a positive factor in helping Waikiki move into the future. We're also glad to see recognition of the oft-overlooked fact that 20,000 people call Waikiki home. More than just a storied tourist destination, honest-to-goodness Hawaiian residents do populate Waikiki in numbers that surprise visitor and kama`aina alike.

The Star-Advertiser's commitment to Waikiki is further underlined by their appointment of a senior, award-winning journalist to run the new bureau.

We especially appreciate Ms. Schaefers' statement that "What happens in Waikiki affects nearly everyone in this state in one way or another ..."

This is something not often acknowledged or even realized by many Hawaiian residents, who know Waikiki is a major tourist center but don't understand the economic influence the district exerts. We too like to think that what's good for Waikiki is good for Hawai`i.

We wish Ms. Schaefers and the new Waikiki Bureau much success. Waikiki faces many challenges, but if we all work together the future can be a bright one. Having the Star-Advertiser on board with this effort will give a great  boost to Waikiki.

Dining in Waikiki: Marukame Udon

Marukame Udon is one of the latest additions to the Waikiki restaurant scene. It opened on April 1 at the old Jack-in-the-Box location at 2310 Kuhio.

The relatively fancy exterior might lead you to think this is an upscale Japanese noodle restaurant, but it's not; in the main, it's a moderately-priced cafeteria-style eatery serving varieties of udon and tempura.

In the first couple of weeks of operation, we observed very long waiting lines for such a small restaurant, so we let the fervor die down a little and went there one afternoon for a late lunch. In mid-afternoon, we experienced no wait.

Niku Udon

We decided on the Niku Udon (a beef dish) in the "regular" size for $5.75, and the Curry Udon (also beef) for just $5.25 in the same size. The servings were more than enough for lunch, perhaps even dinner, and you'd have to be really hungry to eat all of the "large" bowl.

The udon noodles are made on-premises and that makes all the difference. We found them to be utterly fresh and with incomparable flavor. They were cooked to perfection, having that combined softness and solidity that is characteristic of really excellent udon.

The broth in the Niku had a nice lightness and a pleasing taste; it didn't have the watered-down quality of broth found at "Americanized" Asian restaurants, but it wasn't so heavy and strong as to interfere with the enjoyment of the noodles. The beef was average; we thought it a little bland.

Curry Udon

With Japanese curries, knowing what to expect is usually an open question. Marukame Udon's version of curry was full-flavored and rich without being overpowering. The broth had the slightly muddy mouth-feel of many a Far East curry; we didn't find that especially pleasing but on the other hand, we didn't leave any of it behind, either. The flavor complimented the noodles nicely enough, but we liked the broth in the Niku a little more.

From left: Inari (top), Mushroom-ten (lower), Nasu-ten, Asuparagus-ten

The Udon bowls are a real bargain, and lunch for two can be had for as little as around $12 without drinks or tempura. But once you start adding in a la carte side items of tempura, the cost of a meal definitely goes up substantially.

But first we tried the Inari, which was well-priced at $1.25. The tofu skin had a pleasant flavor and was not overly sweet, and the vinegary rice filling contrasted nicely.

We also tried tempura mushrooms; a small skewer of three mushrooms sold for $1.50. The batter was light and crunchy but had definitely suffered from sitting under a heat lamp.

The "asuparagus-ten" or asparagus tempura sold for $1.50 per stalk of asparagus, a price we consider close to outrageous. The asparagus was fresh and good; the batter also suffered the depredations of the heat lamp.

The Nasu-ten, or eggplant, for $1.25, wasn't so expensive but it wasn't good; the eggplant was mushy and tasted old, and the usual comment applies about the batter.

We didn't order drinks, instead taking advantage of copious self-serve pitchers of ice water. Lunch for two totalled $21; tax is included in the item prices and there is no tipping. Be aware that only cash is accepted.

At the time of our visit, the interior decor was still not quite finished and some construction debris remained. But when everything is done, which we suspect will be soon, Marukame Udon will be attractive inside and out. If you skip the tempura-- and you won't be missing much if you do--- and just eat the Udon, you'll have a very inexpensive, tasty, and filling meal.

 
Marukame Udon is set to position itself as one of the best noodle places in Waikiki, and at some of the most attractive prices to boot. Those long waiting lines may persist well beyond opening week, and with good reason. If you're a fan of good, fresh noodles served in excellent broth, this is definitely a place you'll visit again and again.

Crime!

 

A recent story in the Honolulu Star-Advertiser spoke at some length about crime in Waikiki, particularly crime involving visitors. The upbeat story noted that crime is on the downswing. That's good news. No one goes on vacation to become a victim of crime.

The Star-Advertiser's positive spin was a welcome breath of fresh air, and we'd like to take that yet a step further. The newspaper story utilized the statistical reporting of the Visitor Aloha Society of Hawai`i (VASH) , which includes "unfortunate circumstances" in the stats. For instance, the 2010 figure of 1,701 incidents, down from 1,882 in 2009 but up from 1,613 in 2008, included 396 instances of illness and injury, and 120 instances of airfare/relocation (we're not really sure exactly what these are). This is a total of 516 incidents--- almost one-third--- that were not crime-related, and could and would have taken place elsewhere. We don't have year-over-year figures for true crime-related incidents, but we think that the net number for 2010, which comes out to 1,185, or roughly three per day, is hardly scandalous for a tourist destination as busy as Hawai`i.

Furthermore, these figures are statewide, so the impact in Waikiki is less, though we don't have a specific breakdown.

According to police reports, Waikiki is quite far from being the most crime-ridden area on O`ahu; this may come as a surprise to those kama`aina who sometimes view the district with what we feel is unwarranted disdain.

But it's even better than flat statistics indicate. Reducing personal risk in Waikiki is mostly a matter of common sense. Walking the streets at 3 AM is probably not prudent (though even then, the risk can be managed). Drinking into the wee hours in bars and clubs noted for brawling isn't a required activity on a visit here. While some crime victimization results from sheer bad luck, awareness of surroundings and simple prudence go a long way. We'll wager that nearly all tourists who observe these simple practices have very little trouble in Waikiki. And if unfortunate circumstances lead to a regrettable incident, that could have happened anywhere.

Enforcement and vigilance has certainly improved, as the newspaper points out. Plain-clothes and uniformed police regularly patrol Waikiki, and these days they seem more interested in crime prevention than busting jaywalkers (as they unfortunately appeared to be a few years back). Private security activity has stepped up. And we note that the visibility of prostitutes has declined--- we used to wonder why they walked the streets with near impunity not that long ago, easily spotted in their characteristic clear shoes by tourist and police officer alike.

We don't want to sugar-coat things excessively; there is crime in Waikiki and there are ongoing problems. But we can't go along with the view expressed by some locals that "Waikiki turns into a bad neighborhood at night"; and we wonder at the mainland media who characterize Waikiki as a "dangerous" destination.

Waikiki is beautiful, American, exotic and familiar all at once. And by and large, it's safe and secure. Let's make sure all our visitors and potential visitors know it.

Briefly Noted

We begin the month with a few photos and some brief commentary.

We're delighted to say we've seen real progress with a few of the vacant properties we wrote about in an earlier column. Remember this, the old home of Jack in the Box on Kuhio?

It's now ready to become this, and we're anxious to try it out.

On the other hand, we found this on the mauka side of the Ala Wai near the canoe club. Not terribly attractive but at least it's in an area where most tourists won't see it.

  

And then there was this, at Makittii on Kuhio.  Appreciation for earthquake support by giving North Americans 10% off while Japanese pay full price?

 

Though it's been photographed many times, who can resist another beautiful Waikiki sunset? 

 

Did you identify last month's mystery photo? This lonely but elegant and well-tended palm tree is on the upper story of the International Market.

This month's mystery photo isn't much of a mystery. The challenge is instead to identify where it was taken. Do you know? We'll tell you next month.

Waikiki: Nine Walks Through Time

A Waikiki Wanderer Book Review

Waikiki: Nine Walks Through Time, by Dr. Veneeta Acson, is everything a book about Waikiki should be. It's accurate, informative, entertaining, and above all, it's respectful.

There aren't really a lot of books currently in print about Waikiki (leaving aside pure tourist guides). A number of these are "coffee table" books, and though there are several that we'd call outstanding, we're afraid that many readers glance at the pictures and set the book back down.

But Nine Walks is a book that engages and even challenges the reader, to get out there on the streets and take the walks. While the book is interesting reading in and of itself, it's meant above all to be used, and it's written and arranged in such a manner as to make that easy to do.

Nine Walks Through Time was first published in 1983. Dr. Acson revised and updated the book in 2003. Much had changed in the interim. Waikiki is anything but static, and now a little of the content of the 2003 edition is out of date. For instance, the Waikiki Theatre, about which Dr. Acson waxes eloquent, has gone the way of Fong's Inn and other former landmarks. But the vast majority of the content remains fresh and relevant.

 

Walk V: Garden path, Tusitala Street

The walks consist of maps, photographs, and extensive, well-researched commentaries on various waypoints along the routes. The walks are in the one to two mile range and take about an hour and a half each, depending on walking speed and how much time is spent at each waypoint.

Walk I: Marker honoring Queen Lili`uokalani on the Ala Wai,

and part of the Waikiki Historic Trail

A walk along the Ala Wai canal begins the book; the adventure continues with a tour of the old Kalia area, once the location of fertile fields and ponds. The Early Royalty walk covers central Waikiki and includes a long stroll along the beach. The Miracle Mile walk takes the reader along Kalakaua Avenue, with an insightful look at the past and the present.

Walk I: `Apuakehau Stream meets the Ala Wai

The fifth walk, in central Waikiki and called Last Days of the Monarchy showcases locations related to the last rulers of the royal line. A walk on the Diamond Head side of Waikiki gives a view of local life today. The seventh walk covers Kapi`olani Park and the Honolulu Zoo.

 

Walk I: Canoes on the mauka side of the Ala Wai

Walk eight ranges outward to the foot of Diamond Head itself. The ninth and last walk is a purely delightful stroll along the sands of Waikiki, as fabled in film and song.

Walk V: In the Tusitala garden path

We could write at length about the high quality of the writing, the depth and accuracy of the historical research, the excellent photographs, the compelling descriptions, and everything else that goes into making this a wonderful book which everyone who visits or lives in Waikiki should have. But to us, what really makes this book something above and beyond the rest is the respect, even reverence, that the author shows for the land, the people, and their collective history.

Walk V: Tusitala is Samoan for "Teller of Tales" 

and refers to Robert Louis Stevenson

Waikiki has been called a "concrete jungle" by some, and is unfortunately--- and we believe quite mistakenly--- regarded by many kama`aina as a place best avoided. But someone once told us that the mana, the spirit, of old Waikiki is still here. It's been covered over and buried underneath hotels and condos and all the rest, but it's still here, and it's still strong; you just have to search harder to find it.

Nine Walks in Time is a book that will lead you to the mana of Waikiki if you open your mind and heart. Take the walks. Take your time with them. Read what Dr. Acson has to say about each waypoint. It won't be long before you start to feel in touch with the things that made Waikiki special then, vital now, and ever unique in days to come.